| 04 Dec 2023

Trends: The best "Belle Peau" active ingredients for cold spells

As winter approaches, the skin needs the right care to counter the rigors of the cold. Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid and Phytomelatonin are among the most effective active ingredients currently on the market. These ingredients, renowned for their anti-aging, moisturizing and protective action, are the ideal allies for maintaining the health and radiance of your customers' skin in cold weather.

Trends: The best "Belle Peau" active ingredients for cold spells

Focus on retinol

Retinol, a star ingredient in the skincare world, has revolutionized the way we approach skin aging and acne. Initially discovered for its dermatological benefits, this vitamin derivative has gained worldwide renown for its remarkable effects.

What is Retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A, essential for healthy skin, vision and the immune system. Naturally present in certain foods, it plays a vital role in our bodies. In cosmetology, retinol is valued for its ability to regenerate and repair skin.

Retinol is a form of vitamin A, essential for healthy skin, vision and the immune system. Naturally present in certain foods, it plays a vital role in our bodies. In cosmetology, retinol is valued for its ability to regenerate and repair skin.

Retinol in Dermatology and Cosmetology

Introduced to dermatology decades ago, retinol has evolved to become a cosmetics staple. It stimulates collagen production, accelerates cell renewal and regulates sebum production, distinguishing it from other retinoids such as tretinoin.

The benefits of Retinol for the skin

As a powerful anti-aging agent, retinol visibly reduces wrinkles and improves skin texture. It is also effective against acne and helps reduce hyperpigmentation, bringing a more even, radiant complexion. Integrating retinol into a skincare routine requires caution and patience. It should be used gradually, starting with low concentrations, while making sure to apply daily sun protection, as it increases the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

The Right Choice of Retinol Products

Choosing the ideal retinol product depends on several factors, including skin type, specific objectives and skin sensitivity.

Sensitive skin may require gentler formulations, with lower concentrations of retinol (e.g. 0.25% or less). For more resistant skin or skin accustomed to retinol treatments, higher concentrations (up to 1%) may be effective.

Creams and lotions are generally better suited to dry skin, while serums and gels are more suitable for oily or combination skin. The presence of emollients and moisturizers in the formulation can also influence the skin's tolerance of the product.

Some products combine retinol with soothing ingredients like niacinamide or moisturizers like hyaluronic acid to reduce potential irritation and boost skin hydration.

 Precautions for using Retinol 

Combining retinol with other active ingredients requires a cautious and informed approach.

Although retinol can be effective in combination with other ingredients, you need to be aware of certain interactions. For example, the combination of retinol and glycolic acid may increase the risk of irritation. It is often advisable to alternate these ingredients (one in the morning, the other in the evening) rather than layer them on top of each other.

Retinol and vitamin C can be used in the same routine, but it's best to apply them at different times of the day (vitamin C in the morning, retinol in the evening) to maximize effectiveness and reduce the risk of irritation.

When introducing retinol, it's important to simplify the rest of your skincare routine. Avoid using other highly active products at the same time, to allow your skin to adapt.

Monitor your skin's reaction to new products. If you notice excessive irritation, redness or flaking, reduce the frequency of application or consult a dermatologist.

The use of retinol makes the skin more sensitive to the sun. It is therefore essential to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to protect your skin from UV rays.

How to incorporate retinol into your salon treatments with our post-peel booster ?

Nos Peel 2.0
Nos Peel 2.0

Focus on phytomelatonin 

Phytomelatonin, a plant-derived compound, is attracting increasing attention in the world of dermatology and cosmetology;

What is Phytomelatonin?

Phytomelatonin is the plant version of melatonin, a hormone known to regulate sleep in humans. In plants, it plays a similar role, regulating growth cycles and protecting against environmental stress. It is extracted from various plants and has a chemical structure similar to human melatonin. Extraction and purification methods are crucial to maintaining its integrity and efficacy.

Phytomelatonin in Dermatology and Cosmetology

Phytomelatonin is beginning to be incorporated into skincare products due to its antioxidant and anti-ageing properties. It works by protecting the skin against oxidative damage and aiding cell regeneration, thanks to its antioxidant properties and beneficial effects on the cell cycle.

The benefits of Phytomelatonin for the skin

Phytomelatonin helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental aggressors, which is essential for preventing premature ageing. It promotes skin cell regeneration, contributing to healthier, younger-looking skin. By stimulating cell regeneration, phytomelatonin can improve skin texture and radiance, reducing the appearance of imperfections and signs of aging.

The right choice of Phytomelatonin products

Phytomelatonin is ideally added via creams or serums, applied regularly to maximize benefits. For optimum effectiveness, look for products that contain phytomelatonin in sufficient concentration and clearly indicate the source and extraction method. For optimum results, choose products that combine phytomelatonin with other beneficial ingredients, such as antioxidants and moisturizers.

Precautions for use of Phytomelanin

As with any new ingredient, people with sensitive skin are advised to test the product on a small area before using it fully. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency of use, as overuse can lead to skin imbalances. Be aware of potential interactions with other skin care products and consult a dermatologist if you have any doubts or questions.


Focus on Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid, a key ingredient in the skincare industry, is celebrated for its incredible ability to hydrate and revitalize the skin.

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide naturally present in the human body, notably in the skin, joints and eyes. It is known for its ability to retain large quantities of water. Its unique structure enables it to retain up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it an extremely effective moisturizer. Hyaluronic Acid used in skincare products is generally derived from microbial sources by fermentation or extracted from animal sources, although synthetic methods are increasingly preferred for ethical and purity reasons.

Hyaluronic Acid in Dermatology and Cosmetology

Originally used in medicine for its healing and anti-inflammatory properties, Hyaluronic Acid quickly found its way into skin care products thanks to its moisturizing effects. It works by attracting and retaining moisture in the skin, helping to maintain deep hydration, smooth fine lines and promote a more youthful appearance. Unlike other moisturizers, Hyaluronic Acid penetrates deep into the skin for long-lasting, visible hydration, without leaving an oily residue.

The benefits of Hyaluronic Acid for the skin

It provides intense hydration, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by dehydration. Hyaluronic Acid helps improve skin elasticity and firmness, fighting the signs of aging. It promotes smoother, more supple and radiant skin, improving the skin's overall appearance.

The Right Choice of Hyaluronic Acid Products

It can be applied in the form of serums, creams or masks. It is particularly effective when applied to slightly damp skin. For optimum results, hyaluronic acid-based products should be used twice a day, morning and evening.

Hyaluronic Acid serums are particularly effective due to their high concentration and ability to penetrate deep into the skin. For enhanced benefits, look for products combining Hyaluronic Acid with other active ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol or peptides.

Precautions for use of Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid can be combined with other active ingredients for synergistic effects, but it's important to be aware of possible interactions and to choose products suited to your skin type. The use of Hyaluronic Acid-based products should always be accompanied by adequate sun protection, as well-moisturized skin may be more sensitive to UV rays.

How to incorporate Hyaluronic Acid into your institute treatments with our professional mesotherapy serums ?

Nos C-EM
Nos C-EM

To conclude this article on winter skin care actives, it's important to stress that choosing the right ingredients, such as retinol, hyaluronic acid and phytomelatonin, is crucial to maintaining healthy, resilient skin in the face of winter's rigors. 

Thanks to their moisturizing, protective and regenerative properties, these ingredients offer a complete solution to counter the drying effects of the cold and preserve the skin's natural radiance. By judiciously integrating these active ingredients into skincare routines, we can not only improve the skin's appearance and health during the cold months, but also lay the foundations for healthy, radiant skin all year round.


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